INDIA, 3 weeks visiting West Bengal, Sikkim, and Assam in April 2013, a trip

 

organised by Adrian Hoskins in collaboration with Arjan Basu Roy

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Friday 5 April

Up at 6.30am and away an hour later on a dry, cold morning to Heathrow. Check-in with Turkish Airlines was swift and airside smoothly reached, where I met up with Nigel. Met the others, Adrian, Tony and Dave, at Istanbul where we had a 2 hour stop-over, and thence to Delhi.

 

Saturday 6 April - transit to Chilapati, West Bengal

Touched down at 4.20am local time, 5½ hours ahead of the UK, and set about locating Bill's on-airport hotel. He had flown in from Florida. Security was excessive with full bag scans etc just to get into the hotel! Poor Bill had been contacted by Security to announce our presence but he still joined us for a good breakfast ahead of a long wait until our Jet Airways flight departed at 11.55 for Bagdogra. After a flight lasting 2hrs 10mins we arrived in 31° temps to be met by Arjan and our two 4x4 drivers, Sherpa and Ranjit. We probably got away around 2.45 in crazy, as usual, Indian traffic through the conurbation linking Bagdogra to Siliguri. With a long drive ahead of us, we took in the views and sights crossing the Tista in its wooded gorge (reminiscent of Mugling in Nepal) and attendant monkeys. Around 5pm we pulled in to a restaurant in Mal to stretch our legs for 30 - 40 minutes and to take a soft drink. Our destination for the next few days, the Chilapati Forest Lodge, was reached in the dark at 7.30pm, and we were all knackered. (I renamed the area Chipalati, naturally). The road seemed to be pretty much continuous ribbon development and paddy fields - the planet is doomed - and driving conditions were worsened by the prevailing habit of no lights on bikes, carts, cattle, people, and trucks not to mention the perpetual blare of horns. But this is India! Met up again for dinner at 8pm. My room was upstairs, spacious, but with a ceiling fan that rattled and swayed and had to be turned off.

 

Sunday 7 April - butterflying locally

Slept OK, in the circumstances. Up at 7.30 on a very windy morning and joined the others for breakfast, plus malarone, an hour later having been for a wander in the grounds. Discovered that the lodge is surrounded by dry paddy fields but some careful planting to attract butterflies pulled in Striped and Plain Tigers, and Common Crows (onto the same legume planted in the Kerala hotel gardens). An Oakblue managed to evade my camera and Common Rose Swallowtails drifted past now and again.

 

At 9am we set off for a short, 10-minute drive, into the 70 sq kilometres of forest, protected since 1929, and containing elephants, gaur, and some leopards. We stopped at the Bania River bridge and immediately saw many butterflies nectaring wildly on a flowering tree, including Common Birdwings, Great Orange-tips, and some papilios. A great spot! We stayed here until early afternoon walking up and down the river bank before returning to the lodge for lunch around 2 o'clock. In the afternoon Arjan took us to another spot in the same forest and we walked the track but with declining activity (and sun) albeit very pleasant. A cold shower at 5pm was followed by a beer and pakora snacks before I returned to my room at 6.45 to write the log - but I nodded-off instead and had to be woken by one of the lads at 7.50 to join the others for dinner. Didn't eat much. A quick visit to the MV light and sheet preceded bed at 9.

 

Monday 8 April - Buxa Tiger Reserve

Dogs barking at 4am was unwelcome but at least I had no problem getting up at 6.30 for breakfast at 7. The plan today was to set-off at 7.30 for the Buxa Tiger Reserve about an hour's drive away. Much of the forest understorey had been burned to remove the carpet of dry leaves but some smouldering log ends gave the area a devastated appearance. En route we stopped at the roadside in a most unpromising-looking spot, and so it proved, pretty much, except for the immediate arrival on my arm of a spectacular Common Tinsel (exactly in the same way as had happened in 2008 when Jean and I were in Nepal). 

 

The first major stop was at a construction site where a new road was being laid across a wide dry river bed - the Bala River - and it was alive with butterflies! Rajahs caught the eye and the usual initial wave of euphoria swept over me so that I wasn't sure what to follow for photos. But I failed to get a shot of the Yellow Pansy that managed to dart away each time I was about to press my camera button! The wet concrete was particularly attractive to groups and individuals, as were the seepages down into the river bed. We stayed at this site through the morning in the hot sun, our group presenting a stark (and bizarre) contrast to the locals, men and women, labouring with their single cement mixer to complete their task. At last, in the shade of a tree, we ate our pasta picnic lunches as the locals continued their hard labours. Another wide river bed became stop #2 - the Jayanti - where we followed a side stream/river but activity had quietened down considerably, and even the lantana wasn't proving attractive. So, around 2.30pm, we abandoned this site and sought the shade of the cars. About an hour later we returned to the scene of our morning's butterflying which was still excellent.

 

A small group of elephants had been spotted near the roadside in the forest and we stopped to get better views. It was amazing to see how quietly and easily such huge animals moved through the undergrowth. The drivers and Arjan wouldn't let us get out of the vehicles and were clearly nervous.

 

Got back to the lodge around 6pm and enjoyed a large Kingfisher (700cl and 8° proof), tucked in to some more excellent pakoras ahead of dinner at 8. Was in bed by 9.30. With my insect repellent spray by my pillow I was able to make a quick squirt over my head to ward off a mosquito that had the impertinence to buzz in my ear: it got the message and left me alone for the rest of the night.

 

Tuesday 9 April - Jayanti River, bordering Bhutan

6.30 reveille again, dropped off a load of washing, and departed at 7.45 to return to the Jayanti river with a short stop, inevitably, at the Bala roadworks. We drove up the river bed, thankfully, for some distance until stopping to follow a side-stream on the left. This contained a bit of water, and a Paris Peacock intently supping. Armed with my new-ish Lumix I ran into exposure problems as the dark subject was sitting on a highly reflective surface and the shots were bleaching-out. Tony came to the rescue and after a quick tutorial showed me how to underexpose my photos, and to switch to 'intelligent auto' which was most helpful.

 

The other (north) side of the river was Bhutan. Sadly, great swathes of the forested hillsides were burning, the blue smoke blanketing the view. Arjan was very dismissive of the Bhutanese mentality but maybe they were only burning the dry leaf litter, as in West Bengal, though still disastrous for wildlife? We drove further upstream making another stop for Sawtooths and mostly pierid puddlers before taking lunch at a rather scruffy spot, around 12.15. A Powdered Baron was one of the highlights. Just beyond the lunch stop, within easy walking distance, was a prayer-flagged entrance to a temple up a flight of steps into Bhutan. But this was a popular site and much of the nearby riverbanks had become a public toilet, pretty unpleasant. Butterfly activity was low and around 2.30pm I had 'hit the wall', a combination of fatigue catching me up, the shitty environment, and the relative absence of butterflies.

 

On our return we stopped again at our Paris Peacock site to inspect some bait Arjan had put down (nothing on it) but I was quietly pleased to find a Yellow Helen making use of something I'd left behind!

 

Reached the lodge by 6pm and texted Willy before taking a welcome warm 'bucket and measure' shower followed by a beer, rice crispies 6.30 - 7.30, dinner at 8, room by 9, and bed by 9.30. Not the greatest of days, I still haven't fully got back on the planet.

 

Wednesday 10 April - local butterflying again

Up again at 6.30 and off again to the nearby Bania River arriving by 8.30. An Eggfly was the first subject, though I came upon it suddenly and missed an open-wings shot. The morning was spent here for the next 3 hours when we took an early carton noodle lunch, very tasty. Now familiar with the species, I saw nothing new and was also in a transition mood between the Pentax and the Lumix, still not 100% sure about either. After lunch we headed back into the forest and stopped at the cross roads watch tower, strolling along the track. Not much doing, apart from a Samba deer that crashed through the undergrowth and crossed the track ahead of us, slightly startled. But Birdwings were flying around the tree tops, no chance of any photos though. A Blue Imperial was the pick of this afternoon stroll.

 

Passing our lodge our next stop was a few hundred yards further on where the wooden bridge crossed the river. Kids were jumping off it into the deep waters. An excursion up the left bank was largely unproductive, and quiet, so I crossed the bridge to inspect a small remnant copse, following a group of colourfully dressed local women and children. This little copse was alive! The pick of the bunch were male and females of the Red-spot Jezebel, and I was a whisker away from snapping a Banded Royal, but just wasn't quick enough. I was the last to leave but took the opportunity to walk back to the lodge bumping into Nigel and Tony searching (unsuccessfully) for a rare Oakblue that Arjan had seen earlier on a pink cistus. I was back by 4.15 and went to pay one of the lads for my washing. In a sack he had a King Cobra, caught slithering through the grounds earlier in the day. I asked if I could take a look and he very cautiously loosened the twine tie to offer me a glimpse but was quick to secure it again. He said that someone was coming to take the snake to be released in a more appropriately forested area. Showered and packed before the usual beer and pakoras. Thunder rumbled distantly and then sheet lightning became visible, clear signs that a storm was coming our way. At 6.45, just as I reached the room, the power went off and the fireflies came out. For a bit of fun I tried to photograph some of them and succeeded to catch a crucifix-like image of one in flight. Dinner at 8pm was a candle-lit affair with the thunder crashing, lightning flashing, and rain sheeting down for another couple of hours - very atmospheric! The head-torch bought for me by Liz came into its own. The power was off all night, though that didn't matter very much.

 

Thursday 11 April - transit to Sikkim

Up again at 6.30. The temperature was cooler but no sign remained of last night's rain. Having said our goodbyes to the staff, we departed at 8am through the standard chaotic towns and villages, tea plantations, paddy fields, some sal forest stands, stopping 2½ hours later at Mal, the same restaurant as last Saturday (seemed much longer ago!). An hour later and we were off again crossing many wide, dry river beds flowing from the Himalayas used extensively for gravel extraction. A short delay occurred where a truck and bus had gently come together causing a traffic jam, the problem being resolved ingeniously by placing stones under the bus tyres so that forward movement raised the side sufficiently for it to be no longer resting on the truck.  The crossing over the Rangit River into Sikkim took place at Melli Bazaar, a peaceful but bureaucratic process as our papers and photos were processed. No other tourists came through whilst we waited. Following the river to Jorethang through almost perpetual forest, noting the hydro-power developments being constructed here and there, we were very ready for something to eat, the time now being 3pm. I ordered a very good biryani improved by some of Bill's lamb curry sauce, washed down with a mango juice.

 

Well refreshed after an hour or so we set off again for the Bliss Resort, somewhere in the vicinity of Mabong, I think, arriving a further hour later. Roads ranged from smooth to rutted tracks/broken surfaces and it was heartening to see so much forest (South Sikkim still has 60% coverage, apparently). The Bliss Resort is aptly named, a lovely building set in attractive hillside gardens and run by an educated, smart retired lady who, despite her excellent English, had always worked in Gangtok. As I made a quick trip around the garden I could hear distant thunder. Before dinner I charged batteries and phone as I'd been unable to do so during last night's power cut. Dinner at 7.30 in the adjoining restaurant was quite 'proper' with a couple of young lads serving the table.

 

Friday 12 April - transit to Hee-Bemiok and Barsey Rhodedendron Sanctuary

Yappy dogs outside the window disturbed me at least 5 times during the small hours but I was wandering the garden at 7am with camera in hand prior to breakfast at 8. Odd to hear cuckoos calling!

 

Our transit today would take 2 hours+ driving but we'd be stopping en route. We followed the contours pretty much making stop #1 at a small bridge construction site and weren't disappointed. Popinjay, White Commodore, Indian Tortoiseshell amongst others were pursued and photographed much to the bewilderment of the construction crew. Our next stop was at a bridge over a river where an old lady allowed us to traipse past her cow and chickens, through her veg patch to the river. A Blue Admiral, the only one to be seen on the entire trip, was the pick of the day for me. I tipped her 100 rupees and you'd have thought she'd won the lottery, inviting us into her shack for a cuppa, but we generously declined. Our third stop was just through Rinchingpong where we stopped at the roadside to eat our white bread, meat paste sandwiches. Butterflies were generally scarce except for some Indian Tortoiseshells, Dark Clouded Yellows and Banded Treebrowns. (A small group of fascinated schoolchildren had taken a position un-noticed behind me as I stalked a quarry and were delighted to have their photo taken and see it on the camera screen). However, a walk down the road produced a Hill Jezebel taking shelter amongst some path-side bushes and stealthily I managed to get some decent shots. Our final stop was in the small town of Kaluk and as Adrian, Dave and I strolled on ahead we spotted a ubiquitous Painted Lady nectaring at the roadside.

 

Back in the vehicles for the last leg, we passed groups of girls breaking stones for ballast with small hammers in order to patch the rapidly deteriorating road surfaces, a scene like something from a chain-gang movie. Women do so much of the heavy work here. The path up to our next accommodation at Barsey, West Sikkim, was a tad strenuous being an uphill slog - fortunately our cases would be lugged up by porters and our drivers. I was first to reach the compound and thought it was the wrong place - the barking dogs that came racing down towards me didn't seem at all friendly and the humans at the top seemed to be waving me away. Anyway, the dogs were friendly and I'd mis-read the hand signals! The accommodation was brilliant - rustic, local, no frills - and the pregnant girl running the place with her aged parents were just perfect. The old lady's gold dangling nose ring was a source of much interest to us.

 

Arriving around 4pm I was billeted with Bill in fairly cramped conditions but we were to get on well, pretending to have become a proper couple by the time we came to leave! Showers were of the bucket and scoop variety and we had a western toilet, so all was fine. At around 6,000' the air was pleasantly cool. Our dinner at 6.30 was taken in the cramped dining room - super food and a great social evening with the locals peering through the serving hatch at Bill's (or was it Tony's) slide show. Hit the sack at 9.15 and found the temperature pretty nippy.

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Saturday 13 April - Kalek River

The cockerel crowed at 3.45, blasted thing, but I slept on and off until 6 by which time I was fully awake. The morning air was fresh and cool and the sky was clear. Cracked the shower mechanics and took photos of some distant snow-capped peaks, hardly visible through the haze. The sun came through and I felt happy.

 

We bumped our way, seemingly endlessly, down to the road before turning left to visit the Heepul Water Garden immediately before the box girder bridge over a tributary of the Kalek River. This location looked promising and, armed only with my Lumix, a Green Commodore basking on rocks was an excellent start. But then things slowed down during the 3 hours spent there until 12.30, very little was stopping and even a Golden Sapphire wouldn't open its wings.

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We retraced our route a short way before dropping down a zig-zag track towards the Kalek River, and here we hit gold! Feeding together at the riverside were Six-bar (or Chain) Swordtail, Lesser and Common Mimes. Close by were Pallid Nawab, a single Spectacle Swordtail, and Spotted Sawtooth, all stunning butterflies. Moving a short way upstream over the boulders I came across Glassy Bluebottle and a Snow Flat Skipper. The final sortie turned up a superb Rose Windmill oblivious to our attentions as it took minerals at the river's edge. Finally, a Bhutan Sergeant completed proceedings. Around 2.30 we bumped our way back to the road and then bumped our way again up to the lodge for lunch. Mo-mos were on the menu an hour later, like won-tons, and excellent they were too. The afternoon session had more than made up for the quiet morning. Still getting used to the Lumix…

 

After a nice warm shower the zip-up fleece was needed. We had dinner at 7.30 and for once I skipped the beer, having slight headache today not helped much with aspirin. But I did try some home-made Sikkim red wine, like a mild port/blackberry flavour, good stuff. Another nice meal, good craik, and a slide show from Bill of his China trip last year. Reached the room at 9.15, and so to bed.

 

Sunday 14 April - transit to Yuksam

Slept well, and even the cockerel sounded-off an hour later. Up at 6.30, breakfast 7.30 and off at 8 on a sunny day for Yuksum to the north. A forced stop at Dentam next to the vast colourful market was necessary for a puncture to be mended. A short distance further on we stopped to walk across the impressive suspension bridge, the highest in Sikkim. A sombre mood awaited upon the other side where two boys aged 6 and 9 from the same family had fallen to their deaths that morning trying to reach the stream far below with their fishing rods.

 

I think we then took the road towards Manipung stopping at 10.30 for a couple of hours by the river but it was very quiet here, apart from plenty of Pea Blues. Sherpa bought some trout from the fish farm for our lunch, to be cooked at the nearby Green Valley Resort at Uttarey along with more mo-mos. Another visit to this morning's site turned up a Jester, Yellow Orange-tips, Common Leopard, and Tortoiseshells. Departed at 3.30 via Pelling, a large vibrant back-packer town, crossing the Rimbi and its superb wooded valley, passing through Thingling without noticing, then stopping for 20 minutes at the Kangchendzonga waterfall some 10k sort of Yuksom (after Yorkshire’s High Force, this was a trickle!). A Green Magpie and a pack of 5 or 6 White-crested Laughing Thrushes flew from the road.

 

Around 6pm we arrived at the very smart Red Palace hotel approaching it up along wooded drive. My room was excellent. A knock on the door announced my case; another knock and a cup of tea arrived; a knock again with water; another knock to turn down he bed, and a knock to tell me that I could use the internet in the manager's office. No sooner had I returned before another knock came for my laundry. For dinner at 7.30 I ordered chicken curry, Jeera rice and dal makhani plus a bottle of Kingfisher Strong. We had a great evening! Got to my room at 8.45 and watched the second half of Man City v Chelsea FA Cup semi, final score 1 - 2. In bed later than usual at 10.30.

 

Monday 15 April - staying local, rain stopping play

Slept well but was up at 5.30 having been woken by voices outside. Prayer flags were rippling gently and the sun was still below the mountains. The hoped-for views of Mount Kabur failed to materialise being shrouded in low cloud. At 8.30, an hour after a western breakfast, we drove the short distance through the town to the helipad where, apart from many Pea Blues, not much else was happening so we didn't stay long. On the way back we stopped where a stream ran across the track and were rewarded with great shots of a Golden Sapphire, its mesmerising iridescence best 'head on' and almost no trace when seen from the rear - amazing. A Red Helen also came in to bask but disappeared on landing - several of us had real trouble in spotting it even though it was in full view only a couple of feet away! As not much else was happening we pushed on to the waterfall where parking was difficult and where light rain was beginning to fall. So, we continued into the Rimbi valley, to the Rock Garden, in overcast conditions. But a Commodore met us at the river, a fine butterfly, and keen to be photographed. Otherwise, it remained pretty quiet apart from a Banded Treebrown that I relentlessly pursued amongst the rocks until it finally settled. Sherpa and Ranjit brought our chicken biryani packed lunches down to the garden shelter just as the rain started. It continued heavily so we abandoned the day at 1.30 and headed back to the hotel. A thunderstorm knocked out the electricity for a short while, the rain stopping around 4pm before resuming. The hotel generator provided light during dinner of chicken masala, jeera rice and tarka dal but shut down a 9 o'clock, the rain still falling heavily.

 

Tuesday 16 April - transit to Siliguri

Got up at 5.30 and was rewarded with great views of snow-capped Mount Kabur under a blue sky but within an hour it had gone, obscured by low cloud. We set off just after 8.30 with damp washing (the rain last night being the culprit) stopping at the new bridge being constructed over the Rangit some 5k before Legship but the vast stony river bed was dead, picking up only a tatty Yellow Pansy and another Sawtooth. The local primary school received my gift of biros. Set off at midday stopping for lunch - chicken biryani again - at a stream somewhere feeding the Rangit, then crossed out of Sikkim again at Melli Bazaar having had our passports stamped again. Road traffic now became very heavy as the Gangtok road came in but we eventually reached the smart-looking Sarovar Hotel on the outskirts of Siliguri around 5.30pm. A soul-less hotel, but I was able to change some more sterling, someone from the bank coming specially to the hotel to make the transaction. I laid my damp laundry on the spare bed and went down for dinner at 7.30 - a nice buffet style set-up - and was in bed 2 hours later.

 

Wednesday 17 April - transit to Assam

Up at 6 on a grey overcast morning after rain during the night. Decent breakfast then checked out at 8.40, making for a strip of forest not far to the north of the hotel. Had to abandon the visit after 10 minutes because the President of India was due to pass through on the main road and Security wanted us out of the way. So, we made our way back towards town stopping soon afterwards at the Shorea Eco Park on the right-hand side. Despite the absence of sun, several good butterflies were seen including Indian Oakblue, Lime Butterfly, and Copper Flash. We had to depart after an hour, at 10.15, to head for the station at New Jalpaiguri to be in good time to catch the midday express to Bongaigaori in Assam to the east. With the standard 2-minute platform stop successfully completed, we settled into our cramped first-class seats and were duly served lunch, amusingly packaged as 'Meals on Wheels' - well, it had to start sometime! The track passed across an endless agricultural plain of mostly paddy fields, and through the occasional sharp shower. The toilet was of the squat variety and a tad aromatic, but OK in the circumstances. Our destination was reached at 4pm with Dave and I having staked out our positions by the door for a speedy exit. Two porters awaited us as we scrambled off and two new drivers also in the car park with their white Mahindra Scorpios.

 

They would take us north to Ulltapani village close by the Bhutan border. The final 20k was made on a rough forest track, a straight line through the jungle, superb habitat, though Arjan said that 10 big trees were being felled each day and that in three years' time most of this forest will be gone, along with its elephants, golden langurs, hornbills, and other dependent species. So depressing. Our lodge was reached at 6.30 in the gloom, dim until the generator kicked into life. Very happy with my single room and en suite bucket and scoop shower, a mosquito net folded above the bed. Although Adrian had a mobile phone connection, I didn't. Being knackered, and not sweaty, I skipped a shower and went for dinner at 7.30, a tasty feast of rice, veg curry, dal, an omelette, and a banana. Got to my room around 8.15 to get things sorted for bed before the generator would be stopped at 9pm plunging the world into darkness.

 

Thursday 18 April - staying local

Awake at 5.15 and ½ hr later was in the habitat, my best shots being of a Common Acacia Blue. Still hadn't shaken off the mild headache that's been with me for several days now, so tried Ibuprofen caplets. Felt somewhat isolated down the western track imagining the appearance of an elephant or two between me and the lodge, this thought prompted by the piles of fairly recent dung on the track. Breakfast at 7.30 then away at 8.20 accompanied by local naturalist 'Bono' to an apparently good site. Drove back down the road stopping several times until we reached a bridge construction site which was fantastic, alive with clusters and singletons of a great range of species. We left at 3pm to return to the lodge for a late lunch after a brilliant 7 hours solid butterflying - wonderful to see, for the first time on my travels, the Great Orange-tips basking. Happy with the performance of the Lumix and feel that the end of the road is in sight for my Pentax…

 

Went out again after lunch but activity had almost stopped, so I called it a day at 5pm and went for a hot bucket shower. A short-lived downpour at 6.30 left standing puddles around the building. At dinner, 7.30, I tried a 700cl bottle of Druk 11,000 beer, 8% proof, from Bhutan, after which Tony ran through his Shima, Peru, presentation to an incredulous Arjan and locals. The generator was making our rooms pretty fumey, especially the one being shared by Nigel and Tony, but at least we should sleep well! On my way back to the room I brushed a small insect from my face and received a sting on my right eyelid, presumably from a little bee or wasp. Clambered under the mozzy net just as the generator sopped at 9 o'clock.

 

Friday 19 April

Heavy rain in the small hours. Woken at 5am by lodge staff starting their day and up ½ an hour later, just as the rain started again. Opened my birthday cards, and sniffed the hip flask of Laphroaig, smuggled into my suitcase by Willy, as the rain began to ease around 6. I wandered out half an hour later to discover that the leeches had also ventured out in number, flicking one from my boot. The sun came through during breakfast so that when we set off at 8.20 to walk the forest track to the west things looked promising. The cars would catch us up from time to time. Male and female Dark Archdukes were the pick of the morning's bunch along the 4k length of our stroll.

 

Around noon we mounted-up and drove back to the bridge construction site which was as busy as it had been yesterday but we could be a bit more blasé as most of the species had been previously seen. Having taken our fill again, we headed north passing our lodge and through the village of Ultapani towards the Bhutan hills, but what devastation - great swathes of forest had been cleared, some quite recently, and once the road has been widened and surfaced it won't be long until Greater Ultapani rises up. And this is supposed to be a Protected Biosphere forest! The extent of the clearance made further travel northwards pretty pointless so we returned to the lodge for a late lunch around 3.20.

 

Went out afterwards to photograph various Crows that I'd spotted gathering to roost in the newly JCB'd roadside trench and managed a few shots but was back in my room by 4.30. The next three hours were idled away pre-shower and dinner at 7.30. Rang Willy on a mobile borrowed from one of the locals, a surprise call for her I think. We watched a total of 6 Giant Hornbills fly in to roost in a nearby tree, the memorable creaking sound of the breeze through their wings clearly audible. Arjan said that dinner was running a bit late, and I thought nothing of it. But the kitchen was hastily roasting a chicken for my birthday and assembling a plate of sweeties, a really nice touch instigated by Arjan. The others sang 'Happy Birthday' across the candle-lit table, all very well done. My Laphroaig was sniffed by all and those that fancied some (Tony, Bill, Arjan, and Adrian) helped me empty the flask. The moth trap erected on the balcony succeeded only in being a beetle and bug trap and after a satisfactory day I scrambled into bed by 9pm.

 

Saturday 20 April - local again, but rainy

Heavy rain through the night seemed to stop around 5.30am, and hour before I got up: let's see what today brings. The rain started again through breakfast easing again as we left in cool conditions once more for the bridge site. This time it was pretty much deserted except for the large, day-flying black and yellow False Tiger Moths, Dysphania militaris, and a solitary Yellow Helen. A Flat skipper was tracked to its underside leaf retreat though little else happening. Took the cars back to where the Crows had been roosting last night then wandered a short way down the west-facing track, snapping a Psyche. Now the rain was falling more steadily, so we finally surrendered around 11.30 and went to the lodge for tea and biscuits 'elevenses'. 

 

Around 1.30 the sun came through and it was action stations, back to the bridge site for 2.30 where we stayed until 4pm. This was a great opportunity to get more basking shots of Common and especially Tailed Jays, Great Orange-tips, and others. Walked the last 1½k to the lodge but by now all was quiet. However, I saw Golden Langurs, a Serpent Eagle, and more Hornbills, so that was cool. Back by 6pm in time to shower and pack before dinner. More of Tony's excellent photos led perfectly towards the 9pm genny curfew.

 

Sunday 21 April - local morning, then transit to Manas

Up at 5 (but awake pretty often from 2.30 as one of our drivers was throwing up repeatedly across the corridor) out at 5.30 on a mission to find some Awls: Arjan thought we might find some around an isolated building about half-way to the bridge site. Four Wreathed Hornbills flew across in front of us as we drove south. And so it proved - both Common and the sensational Orange-tail Awl giving us a good run for our money around the walls. Stops at the Crow feeding station (where a footpath crossed the main track), and at the bridge delivered nothing, but it was still early and by 7.45 we were contemplating breakfast pleased that some Giant Squirrels had been seen on the return leg.

 

We would spend the morning along the western track before lunch (12.30) even though it was overcast and spitting rain now and again. The drivers took us about 5k stopping many times because little was happening in the field. At one point we went to the edge of the Shamukha river hoping to find some puddlers but apart from a nice scene, and a tremendous group photo, there were no butterflies. 

 

At 1.45 we began our journey south then east, the vomiting driver now apparently OK. A final hour was taken at the bridge from where we eventually joined highway 31. Both cars sped along this dual carriageway travelling too fast, but we'd made them late and they had a long return journey to make once they'd dropped us off. At Barpeta we took a left turn with 22k to go before entering the Manas Wildlife Sanctuary, until recently a Unesco World Heritage Site. The attractive chalet-style Florican Jungle Cottage, home for the next few days, looked very welcoming as we pulled in through the gate just gone 5.30 despite the drizzle that had been with most of the day. The high electric fence marking the boundary of the sanctuary was noted (but did it have any current I wondered?). Handed over our passports, again, for the usual admin.

 

Another nice room but the few mosquitos sitting on the walls were unwelcome: no nets were provided and at this point I chided myself for not bringing mine. Out came the Avon Bug Guard, very greasy but hopefully effective. (As things turned out neither the net nor any more repellent were required). Dinner was familiar fare but served hotter and of better quality than at Ultapani: the dining area was open sided, as at Chilapati. 

 

Monday 22 April

I awoke at 5, dozed until 6, then went for breakfast at 7. The faintest drizzle became light rain then a heavy shower but didn't prevent us setting-off at 8.30 in two Gypsies, fine vehicles, plus armed guard, to drive north to the checkpost at the Manas River boundary with Bhutan, reached 75 minutes later, walking the last kilometre. A muddy, slow and bumpy ride devoid of visible wildlife. In continuing light rain we were surprised at the level of butterfly activity with several species even basking in it! The river bank became a cold corridor with a brisk easterly wind blowing along it so we soon returned to the forest where it was several degrees warmer and much more sheltered. The Lumix was repeatedly put into a Ziplok bag to keep it dry. Around 12.30 the sun came through warmly and enticed a rare Plane lycaenid to sit on a leaf, much to the wild excitement of Arjan who set off in pursuit, crashing through the undergrowth reminiscent of Safi or a young rhino! At 1.20 we began a bumpy return to the Florican for lunch, pausing to watch a tuskless single male elephant that had a pissed-off look about it causing the Indians to be very wary.

 

Lunch was hot and standard fayre - rice, veg curry, and dal - but as we ate the rain came back, washing out the rest of the afternoon leaving us with 4 hours to kill before dinner. During brief sunny intervals I added to my Grass Blue collection and chatted to Adrian for an hour or so on our verandah as dusk fell. 

 

Tuesday 23 April

Up at 5.30 to go on an elephant safari. Coffee was laid on at 5.45 before we walked down to the sanctuary entrance to mount our beasts. Unlike previous experiences, Nigel and I had to sit astride the animal's back, most uncomfortable! The safari was mostly a non-event through tallish grasses and devoid of any great interest other than a Black-shouldered Kite that kept flying ahead of us, a large eagle, and a solitary elephant, probably the tuskless male seen yesterday. Apparently, the area contains 34 tigers, at the last census, but the method of calculation has to be very suspect. By the finish my left groin was aggravated and stiffness in my legs made dismounting into an undignified lateral scramble onto the platform. As for Nigel's disembarkation, well, I wouldn't be so rude as to comment further! We watched the other four mount up before wandering back to the Florican. En route, eagle-eyed Dave spotted a tattered Black Rajah at rest and then a Common Onyx was noticed sitting a couple of feet away.

 

The day was already warm, and a hot one was predicted. After the others had returned and we'd breakfasted we bumped our way back to the Manas river arriving around 10.45. Butterflies were initially good, a total of three female Orange Oakleafs busily and fussily ovipositing at ground level and some Apeflies chasing one another from their perches, but overall it was quieter than anticipated, given the better weather. At 2pm we returned bumpily to the Florican, me feeling whacked in the heat. I won't miss bumpy rides for a while. Took a rest after lunch and at 4.30 wandered down the road to the sanctuary gate in pleasant warm evening sun but little was happening on the butterfly front.

 

The evening followed its by now well-established format.

 

Wednesday 24 April

Slept well, a good 9 hours kip. Up for breakfast at 7am on another sunny day. The plan is to leave at 7.30 in the Gypsies with two armed guards to venture deeper into the reserve somewhere to the east of the Manas barrier. With a slight fear of farting I took the precaution of swallowing my remaining two immodium tablets. Departure happened at 8 o'clock and after 90 minutes of bumps we finally were able to stretch our legs and go a-hunting, but not allowed to leave the track. Deep in the forest, in lovely habitat, the butterflies were not plentiful but those that drop in were good ‘uns, the pick being the very rare Frosted Oakblue, Sullied Sailor, Small Sergeant, and latterly a floppy Great Windmill. A Branded Yamfly managed to escape my lens, dammit! A striped leech took a hold between the fingers of my right hand but I managed to get it off before it drew blood - they really are creepy things. Lunch, another biryani, was taken at the Manas river where we'd been previously. A herd of buffalo were superbly well camouflaged in the river, fortunately on the Bhutan side. But clouds were now building over Bhutan and thunder was getting louder: the sun had also now disappeared.

 

So, off we went, for our definitely final bumpy ride, spotting a Monitor Lizard, more hornbills including a Great Hornbill, and some glimpses of Flamebacks, reaching the 'cottage' around 3.30pm. A Lime Butterfly awaited us settling to roost about 6' up in a fir tree. At 4pm several of us wandered down the lane to a field corner where Dave had located a Rounded Pierrot (and yesterday found a roosting Indian Fritillary). I think our repeated visits to this corner were irritating to the young boys looking after their cattle and goats so it wasn't a surprise when the cattle were driven towards us, but more of a shock when one of the little oiks hit me on the elbow with something fired from his catapult. But fair play to them I say!!

 

Dinner was the usual dishes ahead of a traditional dance show being laid on for us on the lawn. It was the Bihu dance, a noisy complex drum rhythm belted out by boys over shouted lyrics whilst girls made a processional dance incorporating a bottom wiggle. A second dance was hard to differentiate from the first and mercifully there was to be no audience participation, much to Bill's dismay. The locals turned up in force lined up behind the wall to watch the dancing, some free entertainment.

 

Thursday 25 April

Breakfast at 6.45, but I was up at 6, already packed, so a nice and easy start. It was a pleasant morning as we set off at 7.30 for the drive to Guwahati airport. It took 3½ hours to reach Arjan's office at Guwahati past vast bridge and road works over the even vaster Brahmaputra and along mostly litter-free roads - a revelation. He printed off full day lists for us, an impressive service, prior to a final short drive to the airport. Arjan lunched with us in the upstairs restaurant after a hassle-free Jet Airlines check-in. Farewells to Arjan were sincere and heartfelt - this is a great guy and I very much hope our paths will cross again. The subsequent security checks were the most thorough I've ever experienced and even included the individual checking of my house keys! The flight was delayed an hour, no big deal. Our overnight accommodation had been made at the Royal Plaza, arriving via Lutgens' New Delhi, passing India Gate and the government buildings, to near the Janta Manta where Jean and I had stayed in 2004, a glitzy tower block, very different to our rural digs. Traffic was modern with a notable absence of rickshaws and tuc-tucs. Quite amused to have been given a honeymoon suite, hardly worth it as I'd be on my own and getting up at 2am! Enjoyed a chicken burger and a beer in the restaurant, hitting the sack later than desired at 10.45.

 

Friday 26 April

Anticipated my alarm and took a shower, leaving for the airport at 2.30 along deserted and clean streets, arriving half an hour later. Security was strict, as expected, but a coffee airside was most welcome. The rest of the journey home on Turkish Airways via Istanbul went like clockwork, even arriving 10 minutes early at Heathrow. Gave Dave a lift to his Dad's house at Wavendon (via the Slough route) adding an hour or so to my return to Gubblecote. The kettle was on sometime shortly after 6 o'clock.

 

Three weeks is a long time to be away…but this had been a fantastic trip